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Old Red Snapper Restaurant

Location: Amimoto Kinmesen Shouryū, Shimoda, Shizuoka Prefecture, Japan
Timestamp: 16:20 on June 6, 2023

Amimoto Kinmesen Shouryu was a quintessential Japanese-style seafood restaurant renowned for its red snapper dishes.

In this shot, my eyes are drawn to the faded wooden sign perched in the upper-right corner. Once vibrant and radiant, it has now succumbed to the passage of time, its hues of bright natural tones fading such that we can no longer discern the characters etched upon it.

The centerpiece of this establishment is its large red snapper situated on the right and an even larger wooden snapper on the left that once displayed the menu and prices.

Situated a mere 30 meters (approximately 98 ft) from Shimoda Port, Amimoto Kinmesen Shouryu held an advantage in procuring the freshest catch for their dishes.

Regrettably, the doors of this once-thriving establishment have been permanently shuttered. While details surrounding its closure remain unclear, my guess is that the ever-declining demographics of Japan may have played a role.

Seeking better opportunities, many younger adults have flocked to metropolitan areas in search of steady employment and higher wages leaving behind their rural hometowns and forsaking the family businesses that once thrived.

The demise of this restaurant and so many family-run businesses like it cause me to feel a sense of loss. Nevertheless, I am grateful for the opportunity I had nearly 40 years ago to experience Shimoda’s vibrant mood when prosperity abounded, and the spirit of a bright future infused most every corner of Japan.

Checkout the Pix4Japan blog for historical references, source material, further reading, and geotagged locations:

https://www.pix4japan.com/blog/20230606-shimoda-city

Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 1250 for 1/250 sec. at ƒ/2.0
Astia/Soft film simulation

ストリートスナップ 静岡県 下田市 金目鯛 red snapper seafood restaurant Shimoda Shizuoka Prefecture Japan street photography pix4japan
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Authentic Japanese Eel Cuisine at Ogawa-ya: A Timeless Gem

Location: Ogawa-ya, Shimoda, Shizuoka Prefecture, Japan
Timestamp: 16:20 on June 6, 2023

Ogawa-ya, an old-fashioned Japanese-Style eel restaurant, stands a block or two from the Port of Shimoda in Shizuoka Prefecture. Ogawa-ya offers two delectable variations of eel dishes: kabayaki (蒲焼), succulent grilled eel, and Yanagawa (柳川), tender steamed eel.

As a photographer, my eyes were drawn to the intricately carved stone lantern, complementing the rustic beauty of the tiled roof, traditional wooden slats, vintage sliding fine-lattice door, and a charming bamboo fence wrapped in black rope around lush green bushes.

Dining at Ogawa-ya can strain the budget. The prices, averaging around 3,000 to 4,000 yen ($20.78 to $27.70 USD) per person for eel dishes, were relatively high. However, the restaurant is highly regarded by the local community and regular visitors from Tokyo, making it a sought-after destination for an authentic culinary experience in Shimoda.

Ogawa-ya prides itself on serving eel at its peak flavor and umami. They operate on a reservation-only basis and will call you approximately ten minutes before your dish is ready. This minimizes waiting time and ensures you can fully appreciate the exquisite taste of the eel. The restaurant is conveniently located within a ten-minute reach from within this tiny port city, guaranteeing a timely and enjoyable dining experience.

In addition to its charming exterior, Ogawa-ya embodies the essence of a classic family-run Japanese establishment, with a rich heritage that may have been passed down through generations.

As I relished the nostalgic ambiance, I can’t help but wish for the continued success of this family business, hoping it thrives for generations to come as a haven for eel aficionados and lovers of traditional Japanese cuisine.

Checkout the Pix4Japan blog for historical references, source material, further reading, and geotagged locations (see link in Bio).

Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 3200 for 1/80 sec. at ƒ/2.0
Classic Negative film simulation

eel unagi Japanese restaurant Shimoda Shizuoka Prefecture Japan street photography Fujifilm X100V pix4japan 小川家 下田市 静岡県 ストリートスナップ
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168-Year-Old Japanese-Style Inn

Location: Matsumoto Ryokan, Shimoda, Shizuoka Prefecture
Timestamp: 16:14 June 6, 2023

Shimoda city in Shizuoka Prefecture, Japan, has a rich history related to Japan’s opening to the West. It is renowned for its unique architectural style called namako-kabe (海鼠壁)or “sea-slug” or “sea-cucumber” wall, which can be seen on numerous buildings such as houses, shops, inns, cafes, and art galleries. This design makes heavy use of clay materials to provide resilience to strong winds, typhoons, and the increased risk of fire during the dry winter months.

These three shots focus on the Matsumoto Ryokan–a traditional Japanese-style inn. The ryokan was constructed during the reign of Emperor Komei-tenno, approximately 168 years ago, specifically in the 2nd year of Ansei (November 1854 to March 1860).

Over the years, the building has undergone various renovations to modernize the structure including the use of glass windows to replace shoji (障子/lightweight sliding doors made of wooden framework covered with thin paper that allows light to pass through); use of doors on hinges to replace koshido (格子戸/sliding fine lattice doors that have shoji panels that were inserted in the winter to block out the cold breeze and removed in the summer for cooling).

The third image provides a close-up view of a glazed window on the door. It features a crest, likely belonging to the Matsumoto family, and a telephone number without an area code, indicating that most calls originated from the local area. On the right side of the door, the characters 松本旅館 (Matsumoto Ryokan) can be seen, although some of the characters have become less decipherable to me since they seem to be older characters or heavily stylized in such a way I can no longer read them.

Checkout the Pix4Japan blog for historical references, source material, further reading, and geotagged locations:

Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter
① ISO 1000 for 1/250 sec. at ƒ/2.0
② ISO 1600 for 1/250 sec. at ƒ/2.0
Classic Negative film simulation
③ ISO 2000 for 1/250 sec. at ƒ/2.0
Astia/Soft film simulation

ryokan Shimoda Shizuoka Prefecture Japan street photography Fujifilm X100V pix4japan 松本旅館 下田市 静岡県 ストリートスナップ
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Restaurant with Namakokabe Walls

Location: Hiranoya Restaurant, Shimoda, Shizuoka Prefecture, Japan
Timestamp: 16:10 June 6, 2023

Shimoda, a city located in Shizuoka Prefecture, Japan, is renowned for its distinctive architectural style known as namako-kabe (海鼠壁), or “sea-slug wall.” This unique technique is prominently displayed in numerous traditional structures throughout the city, featuring captivating black walls adorned with a raised white diamond pattern. This innovative method of architecture was employed to enhance the durability of buildings against rain, wind, and more critically as means to enhance fire resistance.

The namako-kabe architectural technique involves the intersection of white plaster and black flat tiles. It begins with a foundation of bamboo, upon which layers of clay are applied. Diagonally layered flat tiles are then mounted, and the gaps between them are filled with piled-up plaster. This method received its name, namako-kabe, due to the resemblance of the raised plaster to a sea cucumber or sea slug.

The diamond-like pattern, known as shihanbari (四半貼り), emerged as the most efficient design for shedding water and soon became widely adopted.

Namako-kabe walls gained popularity among samurai during the early Edo period (1603-1868). Eventually, namako-kabe became increasingly utilized in ordinary houses of the wealthier merchant class, especially as a means of fireproofing storehouses.

Checkout the Pix4Japan blog for historical references, source material, further reading, and geotagged locations (link in Bio).

Checkout the Pix4Japan blog for historical references, source material, further reading, and geotagged locations:

Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 640 for 1/320 sec. at ƒ/2.0
Classic Negative film simulation

ストリートスナップ 静岡県 下田市 平野屋 pix4japan X100V Fujifilm street photography Japan Shizuoka Prefecture Shimoda namako-kabe
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Temple Courtyard

Location: Ryosenji Temple, Shimoda, Shizuoka Prefecture
Timestamp: 16:06 June 6, 2023

The courtyard of Ryosenji Temple embodies the quintessential charm of a small community Buddhist temple, complete with a nearby cemetery and a lush courtyard adorned with vibrant foliage, elegant stone monuments, and stone lanterns.

In this particular photograph, the essence of the rainy season is captured through the glistening foliage and a pot overflowing with blooming hydrangeas.

Toro (灯籠, 灯篭, 灯楼), which are traditional Japanese lanterns crafted from metal, stone, or wood, grace the temple courtyard. The stone lantern depicted here appears to be relatively new with a slightly more modern design.

Dai-doro (台灯籠), also known as platform lanterns, are bronze or stone lanterns frequently found in gardens and along the pathways of shrines or temples. Typically resting upon a stone pedestal, these lanterns are sometimes referred to as ishi-doro (石灯籠), a more general term encompassing stone lanterns.

Checkout the Pix4Japan blog for historical references, further details, and geotagged locations:

Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 3200 for 1/240 sec. at ƒ/2.0
Astia/Soft film simulation

ストリートスナップ 静岡県 下田市 了仙寺 石灯籠 あじさい pix4japan Fujifilm X100V snapshot photography Japan Shizuoka Prefecture Shimoda Ryosenji Temple hydrangea stone lantern
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Lion-Dog Carvings on Temple Gate

Location: Ryosenji Temple, Shimoda, Shizuoko Pref., Japan
Timestamp: 15:49 June 6, 2023

Ryosenji Temple, established in 1635 under the direction of Tokugawa Ieyasu–the founder and first shōgun of the Tokugawa Shogunate, which ruled Japan from 1603 until 1868.

Access to the temple grounds is graced with a sanmon gate (山門) at the entrance. Carved into the upper section of the sanmon gate are two striking figures known as komainu (狛犬), often referred to as lion-dogs in English.

These magnificent guardian sculptures are skillfully carved into the upper portions of the gate’s primary columns on the left and right sides.

Komainu have long been revered for their ability to ward off malevolent spirits, which is why they are commonly found near the entrances of shrines and temples.

During the early Heian Period (794 to 1185), the left figure was known as shishi (獅子), resembling a fierce lion with its mouth agape. The right figure, called komainu (狛犬) at the time, depicted a vigilant dog with its mouth closed.

Over time, the term komainu began encompassing both figures, and their physical appearances became almost indistinguishable, save for the variation in their mouth positions.

The open-mouthed lion represents the first letter of the Sanskrit alphabet, pronounced as “a.” In contrast, the closed-mouthed dog symbolizes the last letter of the Sanskrit alphabet, pronounced as “un.” Thus, the open and closed mouths of these sculptures symbolize “the beginning and the end of all things” or the concepts of inhalation and exhalation, respectively.

Checkout the Pix4Japan blog for historical references, further details, and geotagged locations:

Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter
① ISO 3200 for 1/25 sec. at ƒ/11
② ISO 3200 for 1/30 sec. at ƒ/11
Classic Negative film simulation

ストリートスナップ 静岡県 下田市 了仙寺 狛犬 山門 pix4japan X100V Fujifilm snapshot photography Japan Shizuoka Prefecture Shimoda lion-dog temple gate

Part IV: Canal along Perry Road, Shimoda, Shizuoka Prefecture, Japan | 静岡県下田市のペリーロード沿い川のスナップ写真

Come along on a 60-second adventure through the enchanting city of Shimoda, nestled in Shizuoka Prefecture, Japan. Immerse yourself in the beauty of vibrant hydrangeas and graceful weeping willows that adorn the canal alongside the historic Perry Road. Join me as I capture stunning street photographs this quaint historical district of Japan.

Source: youtube.com
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Temple Gate on Perry Road

Location: Ryosenji Temple, Shimoda, Shizuoko Pref., Japan
Timestamp: 15:46 June 6, 2023

The splendid 山門 (sanmon gate) is built at the entrance of the temple grounds of Ryosenji Temple, which was founded in 1635 under the direction of Tokugawa Ieyasu.

The sanmon gate in this shot was built in the Yakuimon-style with a tiled roof, and follows a unique architectural design. Yakuimon gates are characterized by their lack of pillars under the ridge of the gabled gate. Instead, they are supported by four pillars at each of the gate’s corners. This style of gate has been in use since the late 14th or early 15th century.

In the center, under the roof of the sanmon gate, there is a plaque displaying the characters 法順山 (Houjunzan). These characters inform us of the prefix to the temple’s name, indicating that it originated from a mountain called Houjun. As a result, the “full name” of the temple is Houjunzan-Ryosenji.

Checkout the Pix4Japan blog for historical references, further details, and geotagged locations:

Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter
① ISO 2500 for 1/250 sec. at ƒ/11
② ISO 2000 for 1/250 sec. at ƒ/11
Velvia/Vivid film simulation

ストリートスナップ 静岡県 下田市 了仙寺 法順山 山門 pix4japan X100V Fujifilm street photography Japan Shizuoka Prefecture Shimoda temple gate Perry Road
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Historical Perry Road along Serene Canal & Yanagibashi Bridge

Location: Perry Road, Shimoda, Shizuoka Prefecture, Japan
Timestamp: 15:34 June 6, 2023

The canal running alongside Perry Road in the port town of Shimoda, Shizuoka Prefecture, Japan, is adorned with vibrant hydrangeas and weeping willows. Fortunately, this peaceful canal still retains its original stonework, preserving its charm instead of being completely replaced with tasteless concrete.

I am captivated by the lush greenery, unique streetlamps, and the array of shops, cafes, restaurants, and antique stores that line Perry Road.

“Perry Road” is now a street that holds great historical significance as it was the path traveled by Commodore Matthew C. Perry of the U.S. Navy. Perry embarked on this very route upon his arrival in Japan aboard the renowned “Black Ships” during the final years of the Edo Period (1603-1868). His destination was Ryosenji Temple, where negotiations took place between Perry and Japanese officials, ultimately leading to the signing of the Japan-US treaty.

Walking along Perry Road not only offers a captivating natural spectacle but also provides a glimpse into the rich historical tapestry of Shimoda. As you stroll amidst the blooming hydrangeas and elegant weeping willows, take a moment to reflect on the transformative events that unfolded along this very path. It serves as a testament to the enduring connections between nations and the profound impact that a single route can have in shaping history.

Checkout the Pix4Japan blog for historical references, further details, and geotagged locations (link in Bio).

Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 3200 for 1/125 sec. at ƒ/11
Provia/Standard film simulation

Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 3200 for 1/120 sec. at ƒ/11
Provia/Standard film simulation

Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 3200 for 1/120 sec. at ƒ/11
Provia/Standard film simulation

Perry Road Shimoda Shizuoka Prefecture Japan street photography Fujifilm X100V pix4japan ペリーロード 下田市 静岡県 ストリートスナップ
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Hydrangeas and Weeping Willows along Historic Perry Road

Location: Perry Road, Shimoda, Shizuoka Prefecture, Japan
Timestamp: 15:33 June 6, 2023

Nestled alongside Perry Road in this charming district of Shimoda in Shizuoka Prefecture, Japan, a scenic canal flows accompanied by vibrant hydrangea blossoms and graceful weeping willows. This soothing sight provides a striking contrast to the overcast skies that often accompany the country’s rainy season.

In this photo, I tried to capture the vintage architecture of the Sogabo Art Gallery on the left and the Page One Italian restaurant on the right.

The rainy season invites us to take a leisurely stroll from Shimoda Park, which features an explosion of hydrangea blossoms, to the historical Sawamura Residence and eventually leading us to Ryosenji Temple.

Perry Road on which we walk holds historical significance as it is said that Commodore Matthew C. Perry of the U.S. Navy traversed this very route upon arriving in Japan aboard the “Black Ships” at the end of the Edo Period (1603-1868).

Adorned with lush greenery, stone pavements, several unique bridges, this path showcases a delightful blend of Western-style buildings and old houses from the Meiji (1868-1912) and Taisho (1912-1926) periods. The area has become a lovely tourist destination offering interesting antique shops and charming cafes, all contributing to its distinctive and relaxed atmosphere.

Checkout the Pix4Japan blog for historical references, further details, and geotagged locations:

Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 2000 for 1/250 sec. at ƒ/11
Velvia/Vivid film simulation

ストリートスナップ 静岡県 下田市 ペリーロード pix4japan X100V Fujifilm street photography Japan Shizuoka Prefecture Shimoda Perry Road